<< magazine top >>









Samarkand vs. Bukhara


Husida grips saucepan handles with both hands and drinks the water for cooking. She rounds her eyes and breathe a sigh of relief. I laughs at the behavior. I met her just 5 minutes ago, although the guest house owner behaves so casual.


"So where do you come from today?" As filling out a guest card, Husida asks me.
"Ah, from Samarkand" She shakes her head to my answer and starts talking on something with a maid next to her.
"Everybody says Samarkand, Samarkand. Like Samarkand so much? There are many beautiful cities as much as Samarkand in Uzbekistan. Here Bukhara for example. I don't like such a dense tourist place"
I just guess what she is saying from her gesture. For Husida's words the maid responds with smile.
"Did you like Samarkand?" The conversation might not be far from my conjecture.


Yes, I liked it indeed. In this tourism country, Samarkand must be one of the biggest destination. High school students in graduation trip, travellers from Russia or neighboring countries ... Registan square is filled up with people.
I don't like the busy place neither. But Samarkand was much better than my estimate. I was impressed by the historical architectures and the air of the city. The three buildings with blue tiled dome surrounded Registan Square was Madrasah Islamic schools, in slightly apart from that there were solemn Gur-e Amir tomb. I felt more condensed beauty on it than The Meidan Emam of Iran. Samarkand such attracted me.


If Toshkent, the capitol of Uzbekistan, could be compared to Tokyo, Samarkand must be Kyoto. Just like Japan, the two cities connected by super express train. The train stretches to further west and get to here Bukhara. So Bukhara is compared to Osaka? Maybe no. It's not a busy city but more classical. Bukhara is Nara to Japan.
Historical site made of sun-dried bricks are scattered over the old city. The minarets are so beautiful. In contrast to the vivid colors of Samarkand, Bukhara is a low-keyed traditional oasis in semi-desart. It should be my taste. However, from some reason, I'm not impressed as much as I've expected on the ancient oasis. Maybe it's because this kind of city is not first time for me. For instance, Yazd of Iran was classical Silk Road oasis too. And the maze like old city was much bigger than the Bukhara.
Of course, there are hundreds of tourists from another country although not as much as Samarkand. It looks like more domestic tourists are here in Bukhara. The historical site still alive as a part of resident's life. Enjoying the air of the old town itself might attract more core fan.
As an aside, You can see another famous oasis city which is called Khiva the further west with taking a train a whole day.


"So which city is your taste, Fumi?" I'm asked when I leave by Husida. The both old city must have pride for each other. "Let's see, I think Even" Or I must say Bukhara's better here? Unfortunately I'm square person. On the other hand, I have some conviction that Samarkand people wouldn't ask the question. "We don't care about Bukhara. We are just going own way" A kind of self confidence. (Samarkand is resemble to Kyoto in the point) So Samarkand people pretend a high person? Definitely non. The residents are friendly enough to the tourist. It also become a point of jealous for Bukhara people.





Sep. 2018



Today's piece
" World heritage jump "  Bukhara, Uzbekistan  2017




fumikatz osada photographie