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L'hotel Sobo-Bade vol.2



Sobo-Bade is the hotel which is run by French owner. It's charming hotel on the tip of the small cape. The antique style room is comfortable. And beautiful mosaic tiles makes beautiful decoration on the out side wall like Antonio Gaudi's architecture.


After the short break, I put swim suit and go down to the beach. It has another swimmer in the water. A beautiful glamour French woman in bikini. Plus, "Konnichiwa" she speaks some Japanese. Thanks God. I make splash and talk to her for a while. Then I leave her. I heard she will stay Sabo-Bade for a while. It means we could have more chance to talk. Definitely. It's my confidence without any assurance.
I'm walking on the beach. I see a lot of stray dogs lay on the beach. I'm so scare of them. But the dogs are so dull. Is it because so hot? Or does it means here is a paradise where even stray dogs lay back?.


I see many fisherman's pilogues (small boats) off shore. Their families are watching them from the beach. I has long walked down for a kilometer and get to neighboring village while I was attracted by beautiful scenery of the sea side.
The children who find me get close quickly. "Photograph me." "Give something to me" I should photograph them. But I could spend all films in an hour if I get all request of the children. To save films I use my special technique "Imitation shutter" It's quite simple I make a shutter sound with my mouth "click!" and pretend to press the shutter button. Sorry kids, I didn't mean that.
I climb up the cliff from the beach and get into the village. I walk around on sandy alleys. Local residents give me squint eyes at first. Then they say "Don't take a picture here!" And if I take a picture, they ask me "Gimi a money" The kids said "Photograph me" The grown-ups said "Don't take a picture" I'm totally confused...
But I think it's normal. 'Cos strange foreigner comes to the village and takes a photo. It must be some happening for them. I'm observed with a distance by the people even when I'm drinking Coke at candy store. Children are giggling as if saying "Hey look at that. Chinese is drinking Coke" Of course, Chinese may drink Coke. I has been here in Senegal for 2 weeks. So I accustom to these kind of situation now.


However I get tired for this kind of exclusive atmosphere little bit. So I decide to go back to Sobo-Bade. On the way back to the hotel, I come across the people who are drawing the fishing net on the beach. From kids to adults, all the people joined and draw it. I'm interested in what's fishes they'll get. So I watch them to the final. Colorful fishes and prawns, looks big catch. One of the fishermen sticks out the arm to me holding big fish and says "Buy it!" Well, but I can do nothing with buying whole fish now but release it.



I have been slept for a while after I came back to the room. I was woke up by sound of percussion. When I came out from the hotel and look over from top of the cliff, I see many young peoples are dancing on the beach with percussion. "It's traditional dance performed by the local young. They dance every evening" A boy next to me tells about the performance. "Here Toubab Dialao is not big city like Dakar. There is no thief, no noise ... 'Cos here is a paradise" He says. Sunset on the ocean, dancers on the beach and stars in the sky, he must be right.


His name is Mice. He works at the Italian restaurant "Mimosa" near by. Many people are walking on the cliff. And Mice introduces me to each friend passing by. After a while, the young man wearing orange turban on his head comes to us. He reduces volume of portable radio to the minimum and put it on the ear for saving battery. He is called "Alfa" He also works at the same restaurant as Mice.
"Hey Mice, what's going on yesterday's guest?" "They've gone. Left for Dakar this morning" They tell me about Paris-Dakar rally. They brought hotel guests to Lac Rose (Lake Rose) for seeing finish of the rally yesterday. Japanese pilot "Masuoka" won. I remember I read about it on today's news paper.


Once I adjust to the air of the Paradise, I feel hunger. I wanna eat something. "Should I have bought the whole fish on the beach? Wait a minute. It meant I can eat tasty grilled fish at local restaurant around here" So I ask Mice and Alfa if they know any local diner. "Neup, there is no local restaurant here 'cos here is a paradise" They say. Is there any relationship between a paradise and no diner? "There is a food stall of grilled meat there if you like" Mice points out. As he said I see a simple hut with thatch in 20m ahead. It doesn't looks so popular. Nobody's around the stall. No, I don't need the other customers 'cos here is a paradise. Nobody can disturb me. And more than that, hunger has the strongest power in the world.


I talk to the man in the stall. Mice translates to Wolof language for me. "So which kind of menu do you have for grilled meat?" "Sorry, all meat has gone today" "So which dish do you have?" "We have only liver" Basically, I don't like liver or kidney thing so much. But I can eat now. "OK. So I'll have it" I don't even know which liver it is. It must be mutton ... or goat is possible. I stop thinking farther about it. "Grilled liver. Eat here? OK. We have tables. Please wait down there" He says pointing inside of the hut.
Mice is leaving. He invites me to his house. "My house is in front of "Ristorante Mimosa" Come to my house after dinner. I'll serve you some tea" He works at Mimosa. So his house must be near the restaurant, I guess. "All right. So I'll visit our house at 9 o'clock tonight, Mice" I say.


Deep inside the hut is dim. I can hear only surf breaks. The man brings up a candle and water for me. "Sorry. No electricity now. I'll serve you in a minute. Drink the water" He suppose to say like that.
Shortly the grilled liver comes. It's simply wrapped in the news paper. Although it looked rough, slightly salted liver is tasty indeed. "Hearing surf breaks, eating grilled liver in the candle light must be a real pleasure of paradise" I think so eating the dish.
But I have not know yet the fact that the paradise easily combine with the word "LOST". And the liver which I'm eating right now is the very introduction to the Paradise Lost.

Sep. 2009



Today's piece
" Portrait " Toubabu Dialao, Senegal 2002


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fumikatz osada photographie